Friday, June 26, 2009

North Col Everest (8,848m.) Expedition

North Col Everest Expedition

Everest Expedition permit cost, itinerary, Climbing Guide and details. 

Mt. Everest expedition from Tibet side has become more popular among the mountaineers to make their dream come true to stand on the summit of Mt. Everest. Among the several reasons, low cost of royalty and other basic mountaineering services as well as the easy route to the summit are the key factors to attract more Everest climbers from North Col. than from the South Col of Nepal. There are no easy routes on Everest but we try to put the odds on our side. We take the North Ridge because we consider it to be the safest. Technically, it is more challenging than the South Side but does not have the ice fall danger. Our Advanced Base Camp (6,400m.) is right under the shadow of Changtse and has a view of virtually the whole route. From here we use four more camps, a formula that has brought us considerable success in the past.
Our trip starts from Kathmandu and drives to Kodari, Zhangmu, Nyalam and continue drive to the BC at 5,400m. and from there it is 22 km to the ABC at 6400m by yaks. We put an intermediate camp on the glacier about half way between BC and ABC, so this trip takes two days. From the ABC the route continues up the East Rongbuk glacier to the north of the glacier and then up easy snow slopes to the North Col at 7,000m. where Camp 1 is situated on snow. There is a long reasonably angled snow slope to 7,400m. where I plan to put camp 2 on snow. The route from C2 to C3 is up a series of rock and shingle steps, again all very easy terrain to walk on.
Camp 3 will be at 7,900 m. on rock. From C3 the route traverses across a series of rock steps and then up medium angled snow slopes and then again on mixed rock and snow to the camp 4 at 8400m. This camp is normally on rock, but some years there is snow cover here. There will be a fixed rope from the neve to this point. Although you may not need this to assist with climbing it does, however provide a safety line which is useful when you are tired and when the wind is blowing. This route is traditionally very windy, especially between C2 and C3.
The summit day is from C4. The route is up mixed rock and snow steps to the NE ridge. These steps are quite steep in places and require considerable care especially as you now have all of your bulky clothing and oxygen equipment on.
North East Ridge is quite wide with small steps with little height gain until the First Step. The First Step is a short rock buttress which will be fixed with rope. Above here the climbing is more exposed but again without much height gain until the Second Step. The second step is across a series of small ledges which are sometimes snow covered, then around a large boulder and then up the ladder. Again, all of this section will be fixed with rope. Above this step there is again relatively gentle mixed ground until what is called the Third Step. Although not as serious as the previous steps, there is fixed rope to the Col before the final summit snow slopes. These are quite steep and also have fixed rope to the rock buttress from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to the summit. We have designed itinerary for make this expedition successful joining with other climber in minimum cost.
Expedition Itinerary:
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.Day 02: Free in Kathmandu.Day 03: Preparation for expedition and official trip briefing.Day 04: Drive to Kodari, Cross boarder then drive to Zhangmu 2350m. Overnight at Hotel.Day 05: Drive to Nyalam 3750m. Overnight in Hotel.Day 06: Nyalam rest or hiking for acclimatization. Hotel.Day 07: Drive to Shegar 4050m. Hotel.Day 08: Shegar rest or hiking for acclimatization. Hotel.Day 09: Drive to Everest Chinese Base Camp 5200m. Tented CampDay 10 –12: Chinese Base Camp Rest. Tented Camp.Day 13: Chinese Base Camp to Intermediate Camp 6200m. Tented Camp.Day 14: Intermediate Camp – Advance Base Camp 6500m. Tented Camp.Day 15 – 57: North Col Everest 8848m. Climbing Period. Tented CampDay 58: Return to Advance Base Camp.Day 59: Return to Base Camp and back pack.Day 60: Cleaning up Base Camp preparation to return.Day 61: Drive to Nyalam (3750m). Overnight in Guest House.Day 62: Drive to Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.Day 63: Free in Kathmandu.Day 64: Last minute transfer to airport for your onward journey.
Expedition Cost in group joining basis;
Cost: US $ / EURO Per Person. Climbing Sherpa: Per Sherpa US $ 3500 + climbing & summit bonus (if required by climber)
Expedition Cost Includes:
All land transportation by private vehicle, (Airport /Hotel/Airport & expedition pick up & drop).
Welcome dinner with Nepali culture programs.
6 Nights Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast basis at (3 Star Hotel) Hotel Manang.
Experience, professional Nepalese expedition crews; Advance Base Camp guide, Cook, Kitchen boys, and mountaineering gears till to the ABC.
Crew’s equipment charge, daily wages, expedition insurance and other facility will provided by our agency itself.
Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew’s.
3 Major meals B/L/D (Full board basis) and Hotel accommodation while on the way to expedition as per programs Zhangmu, Nyalam, Tingri and Rongbuk.
3 Major meals B/L/D during your stay in Chinese Base Camp and Advance Base Camp.
Each person will get one North Face brand Tent and Mattress for Chinese Base Camp and Advance Base Camp.
We provide Dining Tent, Tables, Chairs, Toilet Tent, Mess Tent, Shower Tent and Kitchen Tent at Chinese Base Camp and Advance Base Camp.
Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels allowed for expedition till to and from Base Camp and Advance Base Camp
Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels is allowed on the way back to Advance Base Camp to Chinese Base Camp. (Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels carried by Yak).
Kathmandu/ Zhangmu/ Chinese Base Camp/ Zhangmu/ Kathmandu by tourist Mini Bus/Jeep/ Land Cruiser for members, Nepalese crew’s and Truck for the whole expedition gears.
Everest Expedition permit, Tibet group Visa and Travel Permit.
Liaison Officer and Interpreter for expedition till Chinese Base Camp.
Emergency Oxygen, Mask & regulator for Advance Base Camp.
Satellite Phone (Pay call service till ABC).
Gammo Bag for the life saving device, incase of altitude sickness for Member during the expedition.
Expedition T-shirts for each member with expedition label.
Medical Kit Box for Nepalese crew’s and simple medical service for members till ABC.
Expedition Cost Doesn’t Include:
Airfare: To & from your country.
International airport departure tax.
Nepal entry visa and Re-entry visa fees.
Personal expedition climbing gears.
Major meals: Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Personal local transportation in Kathmandu and Tibet except above mentioned programs.
Personal travel medical and rescue insurance.
Emergency evacuation: Rescue Jeep US $ 700 to Zhangmu/Nepal border.
Personal medicines and First-Aid expenses.
Personal nature expenses.
All Drinks except tea and coffee.
Postage letter, Laundry service, Telephone calls and all other items of personal nature.
Extra Yak: Per Yak's US $ 100 will be charged for 40 KG. load and US $ 25 for per Tibetan Yak man.
Garbage Deposit US $ 500 (sharing with all total of the expedition climbers) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the climber don't take back their garbage to ABC.
Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa.
Tips for Nepalese crew
Mountain flight in Nepal
Trekking in Nepal
Honeymoon in Nepal
mustang trek
manaslu trekking
Tour in Nepa
Annapurna trekking
Trekking guide in Nepal
Alternative way for the lifestyle when travelling in Nepal will be possible by Booking  a home stay in Nepal. Mountains  home  is running by the home stay family in Nepal kathmandu. Home stay in Nepal give you the best ideas of the explore the Nepalese culture by giving face to face and eyewitness experience.  lets book  home stay in Nepal for  grab  the opportunity  to study the Nepalese life style. After home stay again you can come back hotel with helps to clear picture of the Nepal living ideas. 

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