Friday, June 26, 2009

chou Expediton

                Cho oyu Expedition

Cho Oyu ("Turquoise Goddess") is the sixth highest mountain in the world. It rises 8,201 m (26,906') above sea level astride the Nepal-Tibet border just 25 km northwest of Everest and Lhotse (the fourth highest) in the Khumbu region. Together, the trio dominate the surrounding mountains. Just west of Cho Oyu is the Nangpa La, (5,716m/18,753 ft) a glacial pass, along the main trade route between the Khumbu Sherpas and Tibet. Cho Oyu's proximity to the Nangpa La and the generally moderate slopes of the standard northwest ridge route have earned it the distinction among some climbers as being the easiest 8,000+m peak to climb and it is a popular objective for our guided parties. This is at minimum a 45-day outing (55, if trekking from Lukla), given good weather on the mountain.

There are a number of routes up Cho Oyu. By far the most popular is the western face, approached from Tibet. The mountain is rarely climbed from Nepal, but routes do exist.
There are three ways to get to the mountain. One is  to fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa, Tibet and then drive overland for two days through Shigatse to Tingri. From Tingri it is a two hour jeep trip to Base Camp. This route is a great way to see Lhasa and other parts of Tibet as well as allowing time to acclimatize. The flight to Lhasa passes Everest and some of the other 8000ers. On a clear day, it is a spectacular flight.
The second option is to drive from Kathmandu through Kodari (Nepal)/Zangmu (Tibet) to Tingri. It usually takes two days minimum to drive from Kathmandu to Tingri, so it is advisable to stop on the way for acclimatization. Nyalam is about the only major town between Zangmu and Tingri to spend time acclimatizing. You're going all the way from about 800m to 5150m in one shot. This way, you get to experience the changing topography and climatic zones and get a glimpse of rural village life along the way.
The third option involves climbing from the Nepalese side. The normal approach is to fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and trek through the Khumbu region to Base Camp. This trek allows for plenty of acclimatization and strengthening and a much more intimate feel for the Sherpa lifestyle. If you have the extra time, it is definitely worth trekking in.
At any rate, once at Base Camp, it is an easy two day hike to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) where you will spend the majority of your time.

Permits are required for climbers on both sides of the mountain. On the Chinese side, you need to arrange for a liaison officer (LO) through the Chinese/Tibetan Mountaineering Association. An interpreter is provided by the CTMA and is usually necessary as the Chinese LOs generally do not speak languages other than Chinese or Tibetan. Trekking directly from Nepal across the Nangpa La into China and trying to climb without a Chinese permit is not a good idea. The Chinese have arrested climbers at ABC and removed them.

The Chinese LOs stay at Base Camp during expeditions while the climbers spend most of their time at Advanced Base Camp (ABC).
See the introduction to this section regarding permits for the Nepal ascent.

When to Trek
The pre-monsoon season has its advantages in terms of a warmer summiting period. You usually start acclimatizing in early spring and the most common period for trying for the summit is in the end of May to early June. When you arrive there it can be bitterly cold, but it gets warmer by the day and hopefully you'll have a warm and clear day for the summit. This is why many climbers choose to go before the monsoon. The disadvantages are the constant pressure of beating the clock against the upcoming monsoon and the abrupt weather changes from sun and no wind to really bad in a matter of half an hour.
The post-monsoon season usually offers more stable weather, but when it's bad, it's usually really bad. The violent fall and early winter storms can be ferocious. On the other hand, there's no real deadline for the post-monsoon season. As long as you can deal with the cold, you can attempt the summit late in the year. Usually climbers try to be ready for a summit attempt in late September or early October. The skies are usually very clear after the monsoon and Autumn in Tibet is beautiful.
The West Face sees the most number of attempts. The crux of the climb is generally considered to be the ice fall between Camp 1 and 2 at around 6700 meters. With the number of groups on this route, this section is usually well fixed with ropes. The second crux is the rock band above Camp 3 at around 7600 meters. Because of the strenuous nature of hauling yourself up at this altitude, this section has stopped a number of would-be summitters. This section is usually done in the dark on the way to the summit which only adds to the challenge.
From ABC to Camp 1 is a moderate hike along the glacier moraine followed by a short, but steep hike up a very mobile scree slope. Depending on the time of year, the top of the scree slope can be snow and ice. Trekkers can often reach Camp 1.

From Camp 1 on up the route is over snow and ice.
A Caveat:
Because of the relatively low objective danger, this tends to be a very popular mountain with climbers attempting their first 8000 meter peak. Because of this, it tends to be crowded. It also lures a significant number of people who underestimate the difficulties. The climbing is straight-forward, but the serious effects of altitude make this a challenging mountain. Remember, it is still the 6th highest mountain in the world!
The weather can be unpredictable and very dangerous to the unprepared. The wind and cold can be intense, and frostbite is common. There can be a serious avalanche danger in the post monsoon season. Numerous people have died on the mountain. It is not a mountain to be taken lightly.
Please read PEAK CLIMBING INTRODUCTION for information pertinent to this and other peak climbs in Nepal.
Day 01:  Upon arrival at the airport, welcome by our representative & transfer to the Hotel. Briefing at the hotel about the expedition.
Day 02-03: Stay in Kathmandu and get Tibet visa and permit.
Day 04: Drive to Zangmu
Day 05: Drive to Nyalam
Day 06: Nyalam, acclimatization day
Day 07: Drive to Tingri
Day 08: Tingri, acclimatization day
Day 09: Drive to Base Camp
Day 11-13: Stay at Base Camp and prepare for the ascent
Day 14: Advance Base Camp
Day 15: Stay at ABC
Day 16-37: Climbing Period
Day 38: Return to ABC
Day 39: Return to Base Camp
Day 40: Cleaning up Base Camp
Day 41: Drive to Zangmu
Day 42: Drive back to Kathmandu
Day 43-44: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 45: Transfer to the airport to fly to onward destination

Cost includes:
Hotel Accomodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast( 3 star level )
Food for trekking and expedition period
Expedition crew: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook's Helper
Porters or Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla
Flights with Cargo 50 Kg per person
Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison Officer, expedition crew
Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
1 tent for 1 person for Expedition north face brand
Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
Emergency Oxyzen, Mask and regulator
Fare well dinner

Cost does not include:
PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking
Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
Climbing food, gas & stove above Base camp
Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter
Walkie-talkie permit & personal satellite phone permit
Oxygen & mask w/regulator
Personal expenses
Bar Bills & beverages
cho oyu expedition information, cost, itinerary, detail and  cho oyu climbing Guide

Mt. Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world located a short distance to the west from Mt. Everest and Lhotse (the fourth highest) in the Khumbu region of eastern Nepal along the Tibetan border China. Its towering peak stands with Mt. Everest well above the surrounding mountains. It became a familiar landmark to climbers ascending Everest’s North face. It is just west from Cho Oyo is Nangpa-La, the main trade route between the Nepal Namche Bazaar (Khumbu Region) and Tibet. However, Cho Oyu's proximity to the Nangpa La has earned it the distinction among some climbers as being the easiest 8,000m. a beautiful mountain which attract for the every trekkers and climbers. Early in the morning we transfer to the domestic airport where you will fly to Lukla, meet our rest of support crews and start trek to Phakding to the Cho Oyu Base Camp and end of this trip will be at Lukla then fly out by plane to Kathmandu.
Latitude: 28º 05’ 37”.
Longitude: 86º 39’ 43”.
First time scaled by: Mr. Maciej Berbeka on February 12, 1984. Poland
Normal Ascent Route: South East Ridge
Expedition Itinerary:
Hotel/ Lodges/ Camping38 Days Trek/ClimbingGrade: MountaineeringFood: Included except main meals in KathmanduAccommodation: 6 Nights Kathmandu and 37 Nights Tea-house Lodges/CampingSeason: Spring & Autumn
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.Day 02: Kathmandu free.Day 03: Official works for expedition and briefing by officer of Ministry of Tourism.Day 04: Kathmandu – Lukla 2860m. by flight and trek to Phakding 2622m. Day 05: Phakding - Namche Bazaar 3440m. Day 06: Namche rest for acclimatization. Day 07: Namche – Dole (4,200m).Day 08: Dole – Machharmo (4,410m). Day 09: Machharmo – Gokyo Lake. (4,750m.). Day 10: Gokyo rest day for acclimatization. Day 11: Gokyo – Ngozumba Tso. Day 12: Bgozumba Tso – Cho Oyu Base Camp 5400m.Day 13 – 35: Climbing period for Cho Oyu 8201m.Day 36: Cho Oyu Base Camp – Gokyo Lake.Day 37: Gokyo Lake – Dole.Day 38: Dole – Namche Bazaar.Day 39: Namche Bazaar – Phakding.Day 40: Phakding – Lukla then transfer to Teahouse Lodge.Day 41: Lukla – Kathmandu by flight and transfer to Hotel.Day 42: Kathmandu free.Day 43: Kathmandu free.Day 44: Last Minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey
Expedition Cost in group joining basis;
US $ / Euro Per PersonClimbing Sherpa: Per Sherpa US $ 2000 (if required by climber)
Service includes:
All land transportation: Airport /Hotel/Airport, trekking, expedition pick up & drop.
6 Nights Accommodation in Kathmandu at a tourist class Hotel on bed & breakfast plan as per given itinerary.
Transport as per itinerary for members, staff and Liaison Officer.
Transportation of all food and climbing equipments to base camp and back.
Peak permit fee.
Full board basis during the trekking.
All kitchen equipments; kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, shower tent, chairs and tables at the base camp.
Cook and Kitchen boys at the base camp.
Base camp tents for members and staff.
Per Person 50 KG. Equipment’s luggage / barrels allowed till to Base Camp.
Equipment allowance, wages and insurance for base camp staff and Liaison Officer.
National Park Conservation Fee.
Visa extension.
Air fare: KTM/Lukla/ KTM & domestic airport tax with Cargo fees.
Satellite phone (Pay calls).
Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator.
Helicopter rescue insurance for Nepalese staff.
Agency service charges.
Service does not include:
Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Airfare from / to your country.
Nepal entry visa fee. (Can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
Hotel after 6 nights stay in Kathmandu.
Service above Base Camp.
Drinks except tea and coffee.
Personal climbing gear and equipment above base camp.
Walki -Takie permit & Satellite phone permit.
Oxygen & Mask -regulator for climbing.
Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation.
Climbing Guide (Sherpa).
Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving to Nepal by air or road.
Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone, etc.
International airport departure tax & tourist tax.
Tips and climbing bonus.
Garbage deposit US $ 3000.00 for a team. After expedition deposit will be refundable.
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